Sustenpass is a typical summer bouldering area in the Swiss Alps, with all of its advantages: good quality gneiss rock, moderate temperature at the summer climbing season and beautiful landscape. The crag is located on a hillside at the altitute of 2000 meter, so you can find out, the season starts around late May. During the winter and spring the road is closed due to snow.
The area is covered with large granite boulders, mostly easy landings, climbing alone is possible with 1 or 2 crash pads. Approaching the sectors is also easy, just a few minutes walk from the parking lot. There are boulders in moderate grades, but this crag is perfect for those climbers who climb 6b or higher grades. If you are a first time visitor here, we suggest to start at the „Mitte” Sector, where you can find a lot of boulders in the 6s and 7s grades also, and some impressive lines around 8a and above.
Some of the most famous boulders of this crag what you should try: Kleines Dach (6b+), Dynamo (7a), ET (7a), Fingerkiller (7b), Underdog (7b). In the 8s grades: Traumland (8a), Marakesch (8a), Red Snapper (8a+) or Sputnik (8b).
There are 4 sectors in Sustenpass. The biggest ones are Mitte and Unten, where you can find 40 boulders with 150 routes. Int he sector Steingletscher there are a lot of boulders from 6a to 7b and some famous beasts, like Comme un lointain Hueco (8b+) or God save the Queen (8a+). Hotel Block is one big block with 10 nice boulders, it is worth to go there.
As the whole crag lies on 2000 meters, the season starts around late May / June. The hillside points towards south, so despite the high altitude the sunny summer days can be warm. Thanks to the many sunshine hours in this area, the season lasts until late autumn. The most ascents are usually in July and August (probably connected to summer holidays), but if you need really good friction, climbing is possible here even late September / October, if the weather is fine.
Sustenpass is located on a mountain pass in the German speaking canton of Uri, in the middle of Switzerland, 1,5 hour drive from Zürich and 2 hours from Magic Wood. You should type in the GPS Sustenpass or Restaurant Sustenbrüggli. Parking is easy, you can leave your car next to the road, just a few minutes walk from the boulders.
Sector Steingletscher is located lower on the pass to the direction of Bern. From Restaurant Steingletscher you should take the toll road (5 CHF) to the sector.
Where to stay
The easiest and closest accommodation are Berghotel Steingletscher and Berggasthaus Sustenpass Hospiz, where you can get a room around 80 CHF / person. These two houses are located on the pass, near to the crag. A moderate price solution is Camping Gadmen, where you can stay around 8 CHF / night, just a few kilometers away from the pass.