Targasonne is a typical boulder area located in high mountains: beautiful view, good friction granite and fresh air. The place is located at the French – Spanish border, at 1600 meters altitude in the Pyrenees, 70 kilometers east from Andorra. Because of the altitude, it is very similar to other high-located boulder crags, such as Silvretta or Sustenpass. The region is also a ski paradise in winter, there are some small and bigger ski places.
The crag totally family friendly, sectors are easily accessible by few minutes walking on comfortable paths, families like to be there on weekends. Most of the sectors are flat, children can play in grassy open areas while the parents are climbing.
Based on the location conditions, the ideal climbing season is early spring and autumn. The crag itself is located on a south facing hillside, that’s why it is so sunny (because of the height, the plants are sparse). Few sectors are in the shadow of the trees such as Proue and there are some big, east-sided blocks (e.g. Chapeau, Taz, Themis), covered with shade all year. If you are looking for some hard routes, you should visit the crag right after wet winter (February – May) to have the best friction. Targasonne is climbable in summer also, the height helps you in cooler days. The season in autumn starts in the middle of September and ends right before the snow. Experienced and motivated climbers take advantage of sunny days in winter time also.
Climbing in Targassone is typically “alpine-granite” style: crimpy boulders, a lot of slight overhangs and slabs. The rock is rough with big particle size, so the friction is very good, but you have to take care of your skin. Climbing continuously for 3-4 days is almost impossible, you should take a rest day in short (3-4 days) trips also.
The landing is easy at most of the boulders, so it is possible to climb alone with 2 crashpads.
If you are there for the first time, it’s better to start climbing at Chapeau, Taz or Themis sectors. Targasonne got its name “Chaos du Targassone”, because most climbers know: the orientation is not so easy between the blocks. Use Topo Guru Targasonne climbing guide, it will lead you to the required blocks with its GPS coordinates.
If you are a first time visitor in Targasonne, you can try some of the famous boulders like Pleasure Dome (6b+) in Dieux Paiens sector, Kebab traum (6c) in Taz sector, La Baleine (7a) in Baleine sector or Katalan Psycho (7c) in Dolmens sector.
Targasonne is not so far away from the French-Spanish boarder. At the Spanish side, Puigcerdá is nearby, at the French side, Targasonne is the first city. The crag is only accessible by car. There are several public parking lots next to the main road, by the big turns. The nearest airport is Barcelona, 2 hours by car. Where to stay The nearest and the most common climber’s accommodation is Camping La Griole, where you can set up your tent or rent a mobile home. Camping is located just next to Proue and Chapeau sectors, first blocks are at the end of the camping. Other sectors can be found by few minutes driving. Few other places to stay at booking.com or AirBnb.
As we mentioned, you should take a rest day in short trips also to refresh your body and regenerate your skin and yourself. Check the via ferrata routes nearby, or visit Andorra (90 minutes by car). Andorra is a tiny, independent principality situated between France and Spain in the Pyrenees mountains with a beautiful view and a sort of good restaurants. You should visit the baths (from Roman times) in Dorres, carved in stones with its 38 degrees thermal water inside.