Osp and Mišja peč are in the top lead climbing destinations in Europe, located on the Slovenian-Italian border, a 30 minutes drive from Trieste and Koper. The two crags are always handled together, as the distance is just a few hundred meters between the rock faces, the new car parking is the same. In a nutshell, Mišja peč is more about long, overhanging and demanding sport climbing routes, Osp has more vertical walls, multi-pitch routes and the unique giant cave.
Both crags have high-quality limestone, where climbers can find a huge variety of sport climbing routes in each grade. The crags are well-equipped with bolts and anchors, climbing is safe in both crags. In the hard routes there are usually fix quickdraws around the crux.
SeasonThe season depends on your goals: if you want to climb on your personal limit, the best period to climb here is during the early spring, late autumn or the sunny winter days. Despite of the Mediterranean climate, the area does not have an off-season, except the hottest summer days. Although the walls on the sun can be extremely hot during summer, it is possible to climb in the shady sectors.
In Mišja peč, if you stand in front of the crag, the sectors on the right side are in shade in the morning hours, and in the left part in the afternoon. In Osp, the cave and the most of the surrounding walls in „sector C” are climbable even in summer, if you keep an eye on the shade. The temperature inside the cave is not going higher than 27-28 degrees even on the hottest summer days, when climbing is not possible on other walls. However, the last part of these 40-50 meter long tufa routes are on the sun during daytime, so make sure you have a big rest at the last no-hand rest.
Osp and Mišja peč are ideal crags for winter climbing. If the weather is sunny and without wind, you can climb on the sunny walls in a T-shirt even if the temperature is around 5-10 degrees. In the overhanging central part of Mišja peč and the cave in Osp, climbing is possible even at rain. The rock dries quickly after rain in the other sectors.
Climbing in Mišja pečAs we mentioned before, Mišja peč is mostly about overhanging, long and demanding routes with a lot of tufa climbing. In the central part the routes are mostly 30-40 meters long, so don’t forget your minimum 60m rope and 14-16 quickdraws at home. For the longest routes, 80m rope is necessary, otherwise you have to descend in two parts, most of the routes have an anchor around 30m. Be prepared that some of the classic routes are very polished. In the left and right side sectors are a lot of easier routes for those climbers who are looking for routes from 4a to 6c. These walls have more cover from the sun as well.
Climbing in OspOsp also has some nice overhanging walls in every sector, but here you find more vertical and technical routes, especially in sector A and B. Sector A is mostly harder overhanging routes with small handholds. Sector B (or Babna) is the most popular in Osp, mostly vertical and slightly overhanging routes.Sector C is a real unique climbing possibility in the huge cave, with 50-60 meter long, super-demanding tufa routes. If you like to have some multi-pitch climbing, this sector is also for you as well: big variety of 3-6 pitch routes from 5c until 7c, and some really hard ones harder than 8a.
Note, that the cave can make a surprise for climbers in the winter and early spring: depending on the level of rain, a lake can appear there. In this case you need a kayak to reach the start of the routes 🙂